Tool bit sharpening jig

Table Saw Accessories. World's Best Sandpaper. Sharpening Tools. Moxon Vises. Bessey Clamps. Jessem Tools. Leitz Table Saw Blades. Woodworking Plans. Hole Saw Accessory. Quickly and accurately sharpen all sizes and brands of twist drill bits.

Reviews Share your thoughts! Leave a Review How would you rate this product? Attach a photo or video Photo Video. Rated 5 out of 5. Fast, reliable results every time! Get the best value when you purchase both sharpening jigs. Sharpen your bits in minutes. Make your drill bits last and last.

Stop buying new drill bits all the time. Sharpen your old ones with ease! That series generated lots of response and interest. We listened to your feedback and and created an industrial mild steel version for your convenience. Title optional. Enter a URL optional. This General Tools drill bit sharpening attachment is suitable for most standard electric bench grinders and surface grinders. It features various angle adjustments and a pivoting neck so that you can sharpen both sides of the drill bit at once.

Why We Liked It: This simple sharpener attaches to your bench grinder. It helps you do a better job than is possible if you're sharpening freehand.

It's designed for use by both DIYers and professionals. It includes a replaceable diamond sharpening wheel. It can handle almost all drill bits and allows you to create a split point. It includes jaw guides to eliminate jaw twisting, especially on small drill bits. Not only will this bench grinder sharpen many types of drill bits, but it will also sharpen knives, chisels, scissors, and axes. It includes two grinding wheels. The corundum wheel is suitable for knives, axes, and scissors, while the diamond grinding wheel is better suited to drill bits and chisels.

Why We Liked It: This bench grinder not only lets you sharpen your drill bit. It's also a multi-purpose tool that enables you to sharpen other tools such as chisels, knives, scissors, and axes. It has two grinding wheels to suit different applications. A good drill bit sharpener will save you a lot of time and frustration. It could take you twice as long to get the job done. You might have been using a bench grinder to sharpen drill bits. This requires a certain amount of accuracy, and you could be wasting a lot of drill bits before you eventually get it right.

Drill bit sharpeners are designed to hold the drill bit at the right angle to make for easy sharpening quickly. This takes the guesswork out of getting the angle right. With a sharpener, you insert the drill bit into a jig or a chuck. After placing it into the machine, you set the correct angle, depending on how much of the bit you want to remove.

Turn on the tool, and the grinding wheel will grind away the exact amount of drill bit you selected. With some machines, like those made by Drill Doctor, you turn the drill bit over and repeat the process. Keep in mind that some drill bit sharpeners work as an attachment to your bench grinder.

You can still use your grinder, but the attachment takes the guesswork out of getting the right angle. To get the best drill bit sharpener for your particular needs, you have to know what features to look for. Here are some general guidelines to consider before you choose the perfect tool for your needs. The size of drill bits that the sharpener can accommodate is also important. Look at the drill bits you use most often, and then choose an appropriate sharpener that will work with those bits.

Most drill bit sharpeners can handle smaller bits, but not all will accommodate larger drill bits. Additionally, small drill bits tend to dull much faster, so you need to make sure that the sharpener can handle these as well.

Electric-powered drill bit sharpeners typically come as benchtop models, while others are available as attachments for your bench grinder. As you can see, selecting the correct power source is important.

It will save you from leaving the job to purchase new drill bits or taking the worn ones back home to sharpen them. In the home shop "best" tool performance is hard to quantify because we generally don't repeat an operation long enough to wear a tool out, whereas tool life was a major concern for St. Tool life, in the form of infrequent sharpening, is important but ease of resharpening and initially grinding the tool are also important.

What I gleaned from the book is that most tool parameters need not be optimum to work reasonably well although some angles may need to be selected appropriately depending on the material, e. After reading this book twice I made a very simple grinding jig to produce bits with angles appropriate for cutting steel. This jig is easy to build and makes it quick and easy for beginners and experts to grind bits per St. Clair's design. These are bits for quickly removing material as well as bits for improving the finish after roughing.

This jig is useful for common external roughing and finishing bits, not form tools or boring bars. The bits produced should be oriented exactly perpendicular to the work so a QCTP that accomplishes this is helpful; a QCTP clamping to a cylinder will require careful adjustment for each tool change so cylindrical QCTPs need extra attention. The key to easy resharpening is making it easy to reproduce the angles initially ground into the bit, exactly what the jig accomplishes.

The jig described produces bits which cut while moving to the left but it is straightforward to build a similar jig for bits which cut going the other way. Surprisingly little grinding is required for bits produced with this jig so it doesn't take long to make them initially and even less time to resharpen -- I ground a bit from a blank in under 3 minutes. This simple jig allows new users to grind bits that work well without spending a lot of time understanding the various angles.

I've found I'm using these bits more, especially for roughing, as time goes on. The following is a brief synopsis of terminology and concepts from the book to help understand the reasoning behind St.

Clair's tool design. If you'd like more info on the why's and wherefore's, the book is an excellent source and very readable but difficult to find and expensive to buy. Video explaining similar terminology. The relief angle is the angle below each cutting edge; without a relief angle the tool would simply rub on the work rather than cut. In soft materials a larger relief angle can be used to allow faster cutting. A common lathe bit approaches the work from the right so the left edge must be relieved as well as the front of the bit.

The SCE may be perpendicular to the work leftmost tool in picture or angled to the right; this is called the SCE angle. SCE joins the end cutting edge sometimes via a radius and then the tool end angles away from the work. This is called the end cutting edge angle. The final point on the end of the tool which touches the work just before the end relief angle is called the "finishing point" because the finish left on the work depends on this point.

Cutting forces on the tool are large so to minimize wear and damage to the cutting edges they need as much support as possible from the surrounding tool material, especially the finishing point. A radius on this sharp corner would be stronger and would wear less.

However, radius corners are more prone to produce chatter. Therefore, St. To further protect the important finishing point, a smaller angle can be used just prior to the finishing point to further thin the chip, providing even more protection for the finishing point.